ERE-395 #93


ERE-395 #93
4-Bolt Splayed cap 395 short block for twin turbo F-body. 
Callies H-beam rods, Wiseco -32 dish blower pistons
Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft


Callies will be balancing (re-balance) the crankshaft that was supplied by the owner of this engine project.

I'm collecting weights in order to provide this info to Callies.  Wiseco blower pistons with the S718 wrist pin.  Also Swain Tech thermal coating on the piston top.

The rings are Total Seal CSL3690-35

Here is the crankshaft being prepared for shipment to Callies.

The block has been at the main cap machine shop for quite a while.  The guy who does the work is worth waiting on.  Here is the core that I selected.  A 2-bolt LT1 block.

The block will have the bores sonic checked for adequate wall thickness in addition to the standard machining process.

Block has returned from the machine shop with main caps fitted.  Also partial water jacket fill to just under the freeze plugs.

Crankshaft has been balanced to 1751g by Callies

ProGram main caps.

A work in progress.  I've been improving my shop assembly area for ergonomics. 

Callies H-beam rods and King CR807XPN bearings.  Most area at .0025" clearance with a few at .0023".

...A good way to keep things organized especially with the Left-Right pistons.

Ring filing.  I went with .030" gap for 1st ring and .030" gap for 2nd ring.

Top ring is steel and Total Seal has no marking for "UP".  You have to see the tiny bevel on the ring and have that facing up.  I marked them all with an X for up.

Rings installed and pistons in order, (and cleaned with the parts washer one more time).

Photo to document the partial block fill.  This epoxy style fill is to the freeze plugs.  An unfilled block is about 5" from deck to bottom of water jacket.  Here the deck to fill surface is 3.5 to 4", (and so the fill is from 1 to 1.5" thick)

The fill will cause the oil temperature to be higher but generally the water temperature will remain the same.  Most cars run with oil temperature too cold to begin with, especially strip cars.  (with the exception of road track cars).  If you run E85 the water temps will be even cooler.  The block fill will help stabilize the bores under high boost.

Beginning to measure the mains for bearing fitment.

#1-.0025", #2-.0027", #3-.0025", #4-.003", #5-.0035"

Crankshaft set in place to check for stroker clearance.

All pistons/rods installed.  This gives me a pre-check for a few things.  One is piston to deck height, (looking like .010" in the hole).  This usually changes a tiny bit after final assembly and torque.  Second is rod to block clearance.  I found 2 spots that I will be required to grind more.  This photo is just showing top dead center.

Next step is to disassemble completely, grind the block, clean the block, install cam bearings, reassemble rotating assembly with camshaft and timing set installed.

Here is where the block gets a bit of relief to allow for oil drain back at the drivers side front of the cylinder head.

The block gets all of the external sharp casting flash smoothed off.

Touch up paint via POR15 engine black

The block was clearanced at 2 areas for additional rod to block clearance.  Then hot water pressure washed.  Then air dried and oiled with WD40.  Then touch up paint.

I like to thread and tap the front oil gallies.  I use a vented plug at the lifter gallies for timing chain cooling.

Premium Durabond camshaft bearings going in.

Tony Mamo spec camshaft.  Nice billet core.  231/235/115 duration at .050"
.595"/.595" lift with 1.6 rockers.

Thrust is .005"

Timing set provided by engine owner.  This has a few miles of use from it's previous engine.  Using the EFI Connection 24x cam and crank system.  I make sure to loctite the camshaft bolts and make sure the camshaft dowel pin is shortened so as not to drive into the camshaft sensor.

This one Connecting rod needed a bit more clearance at #6 hole.  The rod shoulder on the Compstar rod is already very well clearanced/profiled but it needed just a little more.

Rod side clearance at .020"
Rod bolts are at 75ft-lb.

ARP and Milodon main studs at 80ft-lb with ARP thread lube and oil.  The outer bolts are at 60ft-lb.

Here is the EFI Connection camshaft sensor holder and it shows the typical too long of a camshaft pin, (from previous motor).  I always check this and have seen almost every camshaft with too long of a pin.  They all have to be shortened when using this system and sometimes with the TorqHead.

All buttoned up.

Final check of piston to deck height.  .008" In-The-Hole.

Reusing the previous engine's lifters.  These are LS7 I believe.

I'm using a GMPP lifter guide that mimics the LS lifter guide.  If you want to change the camshaft in the future you won't need to remove the intake manifold.  Just turn the crank 2 rotations and all the lifters stay up in this guide.

Orphan photo that shows the main oil galley plug installed under the rear main cap.  (this photo is from a cell phone boroscope-endoscope).

Heads on.  The next set of photos are actually video screen captures (forgot to take photos while doing a YouTube video).

Unboxing of Crower 66310LM-16 hydraulic lifters.
Johnson brand and Crower brand.  Which is the true maker?  I don't know.

Lube up with oil prior to installation.  These type of lifters must be installed before the heads go on.

Sorry out of sequence.  Heads on and ready for torque.

ARP head studs at 80 ft-lb

Cleaning out the head bolt holes prior to stud installation.

Front left of block requires a bit of clearancing for the Cometic head gasket.  This is for oil drain back from the heads.  I do this for every engine no matter.

Refurbished TFS heads ready for installation.  62.5 cc chanbers

ARP 12pt nut head studs get cleaned in the parts washer and further cleaned with acetone.  The RTV on the threads for water sealing.

80 ft-lb torque spec.

Let's get things ready for the dyno session and button her up.  I need to set the engine on the ground to get to the rear main seal area.

Here is everything needed to install the rear main seal and its housing.  The gasket, the used housing which has been cleaned up, 3 feeler gauges (.004") and RTV.

I set the .004" feeler gauges at each of the 3 alignment tabs.

Then tighten up the bolts and install the Corvette seal.

One last look at the camshaft prior to installing the cam core plug.

I did not install the windage tray or the dipstick (yet).  1st thing I want to do is install the oil pan without RTV and bolt it down firmly to see if there are any clearance issues.

All good.

Let's install the ATI hub and damper.

The hub needed to be honed to get the interference fit down from the as-found of .005" to a reasonable .002"

I make sure the hub is seated well against any reluctor that may be installed.  

Here I'm using a stud and numerous washers to press the hub (with damper) on.

Then installed and torqued the ARP crankshaft bolt.

She's looking good. (Remember I still have to remove the oil pan and install the windage tray and do the dipstick tube  modification to allow it to fit over the main caps.

But for now I'll make sure I have TDC set with my bendable dyno timing pointer.

I also like to mark 35 deg to give my eye an easy mark to see during the dyno testing.

Here I am attempting to tackle the addition of the stock windage tray and the installation of the Lokar dipstick and tube.

The tube must be shortened otherwise it will bump into the larger-than-stock main cap.  The "stick" then is not guided as well and it "might" take a bad path and bend into the path of the rods and crank.

One thing that helps keep the oil dip stick on the correct path is to cut away some of the windage tray.  That prevents the stick from hitting the tray and bending to the front or rear and into the path of the rods.  Having a longer tube helps too but the Lokar is so much different than stock that I could not keep any length of tube.  Not one bit of tube could be saved to help guide the stick..  The Lokar stick has a relatively large bulbous end that won't bend and so the guiding tube has to be cut back far enough to let the stick (with the thick and stiff bulb) pass by the main cap.  Well, so anyway the dip stick will slide past the main cap and not hit the windage tray, nor will it bend forward or aft and hit the rods...that is if you insert it properly indexed, (I have an index mark on the stick).

And to the windage tray topic....I removed the stock windage tray because it interfered with the oil pan.  Now here in this photo I show the blue loctite that I added to the PCV oil baffle inside the valve cover.

Oil pan on, (just relying on the oil pan built-in windage mechanism).  Also have the valve covers on and they fit very nicely.  I think this photo has the dyno intake manifold just sitting on without the gasket...for the photo.

And the dyno water pump is on.  This is an HD version of the Meziere.

Another pose.  GMPP dual plane carburetor manifold is on but not bolted or gasketed.

Now for the oil system "test".  5 quarts of oil and electric drill spinning the pump and I had 65psig of oil pressure and the lifters/pushrods/rockers filled with oil in about 5 minutes.

Now the dyno manifold is RTV'ed and gasketed and bolted on.

And the dyno distributor is installed and timing set by eyeball to 35* BTDC with #1 piston at the compression stroke.

One day I'll make a video of this process.  I tried here but failed in the camera framing and technique.

Overall total fail on the videography...but I did remember to take photos.

Now we will take a time-out and patiently wait for a dyno session.

 Ellwein Engines 2019-2020