ERE-396 #88

ERE-396 #88
4-Bolt Splayed cap, custom Callies crank at 3.880 stroke, 
Callies Ultra I-beam rods, Wiseco -32 dish blower pistons
529 hp @ 6000 rpm, 493 lb-ft @ 5200 rpm

Here is the fully machined block.  It has Milodon splayed caps and ARP studs.

These are Advanced Induction ported TFS 21* heads.

Upgrade spring package: Manley Nextek 221435-16 springs with titanium retainers.

Should be around 62cc combustion chamber.  These will be cc volume checked at a later date.

Still waiting on Callies Magnum custom made crankshaft.  To tide us over here are photos of the parts that have been collecting.  The TorqHead ATI BBC hub with 24x reluctor and also the TPIS timing cover that accommodates the BBC hub.

Ellwein/Stef's oil pan.  Oil return 1/8" NPT for turbo on passenger side along with drain plug.  But Stef's accidentally put the oil level sensor bung on the passenger side.  I usually delete the level switch and put a sight-glass in place.

Driver's side, also the 1/8" NPT for turbo oil return and another drain plug.

Drag racing trap door.  No windage or scrapers by my special request.  That just complicates oil pans and does not help above keeping the stock windage tray.

Here we have a new and different Stef's pan.  I ordered this so that all was perfect for oil return and with the oil level switch bung on the correct side.

The crankshaft has been completed.  Callies Magnum crankshaft and Callies Ultra I-beam rods have arrived.  Time to clearance and massage the block.

Block is ready for grinding.

Here is where I grind on the block to allow for oil return from the drivers side head gasket.

All cleaned up after clearancing.  Oiled with WD40.

Now I mock up the rotating assembly prior to final washing.  Many times I will have to do more grinding to clearance for rods.

Crankshaft serial number for the records.

Rod bolts have good clearance.

Good piston to crank counterweight clearance.

Piston is close to zero deck height.  (not measured but going by eye).  I have the block slightly decked and the crank gives a bit more stroke and in theory, in a perfect world, the piston will end up at zero deck height. (turns out it's not at zero--see below actual measurments)

All rods clear the block.  No need for additional grinding.  Now I'll take it all apart and clean the crank and rods and  block one more time.
Now it is time to check if the block is square, (relative to the rotating assembly).  I'll check each piston at the 4 corners.  Zero the mic on the deck and check #1, #7, #2, #8 at their TDC.  I check in the middle of the piston at the pin plane.  Below is what I found....
I'll take the block back to the machine shop and have the left and right decks machined to be closer to 0.010"   Currently the block is only decked at the minimum to clean it.  It is probably at 9.015 to 9.020".  I like to do the minimum decking so that intake manifolds fit well.

Beginning the painting process.

Ok a lot has happened since last time working on this motor.  Pistons went out for Swain Tech thermal top, (Gold coat).  Spiro-locs had to be removed to get the pistons off the rods and these cannot (should not) be re-used.  See how they have been stretched out of shape. I have a new set.  Also the heads have had the spring height set to 1.750" and 180# on the seat.

Today is a prep and measure day.  The crankshaft rod journals were checked for size and one of eight rods was checked for bearing clearance.  Here is a quickie check with digital calipers.  1.9980"

The micrometer gives 1.9993"  The mic and calipers dont agree and that shows it's hard to be accurate to the .001" with calipers.  The dial bore zeros out to the mic and then the rod bolts get torqued to 80 ft-lb.  That gives .0020" clearance with the Clevite CB-745HN bearing.

0.0020" clearance with Clevite CB-745HN bearing.  I just checked this one rod for now.  Going to work on the main cap clearance 1st.  Notice the gray folder says Manley spring set to 1.860"  Now it's 1.750"

I set the main bearing in place and usually the stock oil hole will not perfectly line up.  Here is a minor widening of the oil hole with a dremmel.

I do the clearancing with the bearing in place to give a smooth transition.  The block still needs a final cleaning so I'm not concerned with grinding debris right now although I cleaned the mains after doing this.

Now to the main cap bearing clearance fit.  I already fit the rear main #5 and it was good with the standard size King HP.  0.0035".  The Callies crank main journals are all 2.4480" by the way.

I put the shorter ARP studs in place of the windage tray kit studs, (all but 3).  The Milodon caps are tall and give many a fit for having barely enough thread on the main stud.  I use a thin washer to help and yes it's about 1 thread short but it torques down with a solid 80 ft-lb.

Finished fitting the main bearings and caps.  #1 @ .0025", #2 @ .0027", #3 @ .0025, #4 @ .0025, #5 @ .0035"

# 2 and #3 cap needed an "x" bearing 1/2 mixed with a standard size bearing 1/2.  The x means .001" over size. The standard/standard pair gave .0020 to .0022" and I prefer to be at least .0025" on the mains with a high power forced induction motor. Notice the darker bearing 1/2 on #2 cap.  This is a King XP type and that is why it is darker.  The #1 stock main cap received a Clevite MS909H standard size at both 1/2 shells.

Ring filing:  Forced induction up to 30 psi, 0.028" for both #1 and #2 ring.  Total seal rings.

Now to final assembly.  Almost everything gets washed one more time.  Pistons/pins/rods/rings/block.

Rod and piston assemblies with rings installed.

Block is washed for the last time.  Dried and oiled.  I use lint free micro-fiber cloths instead of paper towels. (almost lint free). 

Cam bearings being installed.  I set an alen wrench in the oil hole as a tell-tale that I have the oil hole centered over the block oil groove.  Sometimes it's hard to see.

I always take a photo of the oil galley plug that goes under the rear main cap.  This gives me confidence and evidence that I did actually install this plug.

Making sure that everything is clean and stays clean. Here is the crankshaft just after a final washing in the "clean" parts washer.  I have two drums of Safety-Kleen cleaning fluid.  One is grungy and one is almost new and clean.

Crank main caps torqued and all rods/pistons installed and torqued.  (80 ft-lb on the inner mains and 45 ft-lb on the outer small alen head bolts).  80 ft-lb on the rod bolts.

Another view of the short block.

And another view.

And another view.

The camshaft is in and the front galley plugs are in.  The cam galley is fully plugged and the lifter galleys are weep hole plugged.

Timing set has 2 parts.  It's mostly the Cloyes extreme but the crank sprocket has been machined to fit over the 1.6000" BBC crank post.

Timing set at "zero" and the cam degree check is good.  111 deg intake centerline.  The cam card calls for that.  There is really no adjustment in case if off a few degrees.  Sometimes you can bolt the cam sprocket down while forcing clockwise or counterclockwise to get one degree change.

Notice the cam bolts are generic.  I am out of ARP brand and need to get them on order tomorrow.  These will be replaced one for one as soon as I get the ARP bolts.

Interesting that Crower uses Johnson for their link bar roller lifters.  The best of the best.

Crower instructions say do not clean the lifters.  Simply soak in engine oil.

cc volume measurement of one of the Ai TFS combustion chambers = 60 cc

I filled my 100 ml graduated cylinder and took 60 ml

Also curious to know exact cc for the piston and deck height.  This is 35 cc and yes that bubble showed up by time I filled it and took the photo...some leaked by the rings.  So that is 32 cc for the piston and 3 cc for the -0.010" piston in the hole and the space up to the rings.

With this 8.4 ml gasket the compression ratio is 8.84 : 1 on the nose...exact.

ARP head studs torqued to 80 ft-lb with ARP lube.  I use RTV for the threads to the block.

Due to the Johnson/Crower lifters the pushrods are not the usual length.  I tried 7.2 and 7.35" from my drawer stock all too short and then 7.60" (too tall).

But it looks like I need 7.450"  (on order)

Melling 10554 Shark Tooth with Stef's oil pump pickup.  Slightly dented from my press-hammer.  This oil pump is quiet and smooth.  Standard volume with high pressure spring.

Received the 7.450" pushrods and they fit nicely.

Also received the ARP cam bolts although I don't think the tall heads are going to allow for the TorqHead sensor unit to fit.

I was right about the wrong cam bolts.  Going back to temporary bolts for now.

Finding the best of my core parts to make a water pump drive gear.  Also using the Cloyes extreme water pump drive gear.  Don't use a stock drive gear.  It's softer and different gear pitch.

I have had a few EFI Connection Big Block Chevey nose 24x reluctors and why not donate this one to act as the reluctor space.  The TPIS timing cover was designed for this exact reluctor.

See here on the inside of the timing cover that space was provided by TPIS for this EFI Connection reluctor.  The last time I used one of these for a customer was on ERE-399.

The crankshaft seal for future reference.

2 crank/hub keys.  1/4" and 3/16"

Adjustable guide plates set and lifter preload at 1/2 turn.

The rockers come close to the stud, (but not touching).

Rear main seal housing and seal installed. (Centered by .004" feeler gauge between crank and housing).

Windage tray clearanced for rods.  Just slighly.
Dipstick tube and stick making it past the main cap and through the windage tray hole.

Oil pan on.  Right now with RTV between gasket and block but NOT between pan and gasket.  If there are leaks during the dyno session I'll RTV it.  But if no leaks it's nice to be able to take the pan off without being stuck to the oil pan gasket.
Cam bolts soon.  Then Dyno.

ARP cam bolts.  Yes that cam pin looks funny.  It is because I tapered the nose of the pin with a grinder prior to installation.  The pins are always too long out of the box. (for the TorqHead sensing unit).  Better to grind it before you install it.

ATI/TorqHead hub press-on.  This fits over the 1.6000" OD of the BBC crank nose.

2 shims needed for proper sensor air gap.

Spun up the oil pump and cold oil pressure is 75 psig.  All lifters and pushrods and rockers have a trickle of oil.

Ready for the intake manifold.

Modified timing pointer set on my mark at 36 deg BTDC.  This is where I set the distributor for the dyno.

Autolite spark plugs installed before dyno headers.  The plugs are Autolite 3924 which are the suggested plug by Trick Flow.  Don't use these plugs if you are forced induction or nitrous.

All ready for the dyno session.

Here is the dyno test set up.  Holley 850cfm carb.  Dyno headers.  My electric water pump.  The dyno sessions are performed mainly to seat the rings and the owner can then go directly to synthetic oil.

Here I noticed the crank bolt was bolted to the crank nose and not the damper.  I added a bushing and fixed that.

 Ellwein Engines 2019