ERE-383 #81

483hp @ 6100 rpm / 492lb-ft @ 4700 rpm
ERE-383 with Eagle forged rotating assembly
Ai Head and Cam

The "Budget" 383.  

Started the project with a block I had "on the shelf".  I found a blemish/pit in one of the bores and had to abort and find another block.

Here is the Eagle forged rotating kit. Very nicely put together.  The balance bob weight is 1778g.

Mahle piston with 1mm ring pack.  Mahle pioneered the ultra thin piston ring pack.

Here is the new block.  The one above had a pit in one of the cylinder bores.  Here is a POR-15 Chevy Orange paint job.

It took quite a few months to get the replacement block back from the machine shop.

1st coat on the other side.  After this dries a bit then I'll touch up the thin areas.

Piston # 930210830 from Mahle with the 1mm ring pack.  Piston to wall clearance is .003 to .0035"

Gapping for hot street and occasional nitrous use, (.024" top and .020" 2nd ring).

This is the 2nd ring at .020"

Again the 2nd ring in my bore gauge.

Top ring at .024".

Top ring again show in the bore.

Piston and rods assembled.  Rings installed.  Still need to check rod bearing clearance.

The crankshaft in the build is the forged steel Eagle part number #435337505700.  It is internal (neutral) balance.

Rod journals at 2.0995", (Mains at 2.4481 to 2.4486")

Ended up using a .001" oversize bearings, (X).  This is the premium King MB 557HPSTDX.

All at .0020" except for #3 (and the thrust #5).

I changed out one of the bearing shells here at #3 main cap.  This is a mix of standard size and X size and that gives a .0020" clearance.

Block clearancing.  I do this by hand when I use my local machine shop.  When I have blocks directly from Golen then he does the clearancing for me. :)

Motor is roughly assembled to verify block clearance and camshaft to rod clearance.  A little bit more is needed for the block to rod bolt area.

I peeled away the paint in this area.  It was not sticking well.  Will touch up at the end of the build.

2nd clearancing complete and block cleaned up.  Camshaft bearings and camshaft installed.  Comp 503 cam.

Crank thrust is .008"

Verification of oil galley plug.

Front oil galley plugs.

Refurbished water pump drive with the Cloyes extreme timing set water pump gear added.

Cloyes extreme timing set.

Rod bearing clearance check.

From .0020" to .0024"

Rod side clearance is .021".  Rod bolts torqued to 65ft-lb.

Pistons in hole (-) .011"

Camshaft degree shows 108 deg intake centerline.  Cam card also specifies 108.

Crower hydraulic lifters and GMPP lifter spider.

Mr. Gasket 0.026" head gasket.

Ai heads.

57cc combustion chamber as measured by Ai.
ARP head bolts will be installed and torqued to 70ft-lb.  Stay posted over the next few days for the completion of the long block and shipping to Florida.

...The next day...ARP head bolts installed @70ft-lb

Comp roller rockers here.  Also testing the Manley 7.250" pushrods.  The check is to see if the rocker tip rides the valve tip in the right spot.

7.250" looks to be a good pick.  You may have noticed in the photo to the left that I'm using AFR guide plates.  That is only for today.  I forgot to order the Manley guide plates that I feel work best.  They will be here tomorrow.

Windage tray adjustment work.  I bend the tray up in the area that these rod bolts pass.  Otherwise they would hit the tray.

Melling 155 oil pump installed and waiting for the oil pump drive shaft, (ARP 134-7901).  Also have the oil pump pickup in the deep freeze.  I'll press it on tomorrow.

ARP oil pump drive shaft arrived and is now installed, as well as the oil pump pickup.  I'm a big believer in the press-in technique due to the heat of welding causing more trouble than it's worth.

I also like to use an oil pump stud to fasten the oil pump.

Here are the proper pushrod guide plates.  These are the Manley brand and recently I found these to give the best rocker to valve tip fit of any others.

All rockers installed and pre-load of the Crower lifters is 1/2 turn past zero lash.

Touch up paint applied.  Now waiting for the paint to dry.

The oil pan requires a bit of clearance, (message), for the front 2 connecting rods.

This is a new GM oil pan.  It will be painted orange after it is installed.  Still to do:  Install front timing cover, rear main seal, fill with oil and test oil pressure and that oil comes up the pushrods.

1996 reluctor wheel.  This won't be used but it keeps all future hubs lined up properly.

Rear main seal housing.  It has to be installed with exact centering around the crankshaft.  I put 3 feeler gauges between the housing and the crank to make sure it's even.

Plastic wrap for keeping dust out of the engine while I finish up a few things.  My spare damper and hub is temporarily installed as well as my opti spark.  That is to plug all the holes in the time cover for the following oil system pressure test.

The oil pump spins with the drill.  It shows 62psig with cold oil.

I ran the drill 20 minutes until oil trickled (finally) from the pushrods to the rocker tips.

Here is one mess-up.  I never extracted this broken oil dip-stick tube bolt.

I tried getting the bolt out via ez out and drilling but I made the hole too wide for the stock bolt.  Hopefully I can talk you into using a LoKar dipstick tube?  That secures to the head and not to the block.

Here is what you can have for power and torque with a good street/longevity camshaft.
 (low lift and short duration)

 Ellwein Engines 2017 & 2018