ERE-383 #76

ERE 383 #76
Rebuild of Golen 383 shortblock with
Forged Eagle crank, Eagle 6" H-beam Rods,
Mahle -16cc D-dish pistons,
4-bolt Eagle splayed main caps and Ai 21* TFS heads
Piston swap to Wiseco forced induction pistons.


Motor looks good on the outside except for exhaust manifold leaks.  The crankshaft turns freely.

Engine is generally ok but there is a lot of dirt in the intake runners.

Pretty clean oil in the intake valley.  No sign of water/coolant.

The rockers were riding on the outboard edge of the valve tip which may not be a bad thing.  The witness mark is narrow and that is the goal for rocker geometry.  The pushrods were 7.400" and usually I use 7.2000" . This is something to double check later.

54cc TFS 21deg. LT1 heads CNC ported by Advanced Induction.

This looks more like dirt and not oil.

Many of the combustion chambers have this dirty-goop on them.

The cylinder bores look quite nice actually.  I see a lot of dirt on the pistons.

Many of the piston rings were stuck.  I have them mailed off to Mahle Motorsports for annalysis.

I wiped out a lot of dirt prior to taking this photo.  The oil looked fine except for a black/brown grime.  Like dirty air getting past the pistons and into the oil.  No metal.

The bottom end looks pretty good.  Here is the high volume oil pump that I will replace with a standard volume or 10% HV pump.  Also note that there is no windage tray.  I will install a stock windage tray.

The rod bearings look ok except there are dirt scrapes...(not from metal and not from engine coolant).

All of the piston skirts look ok but the piston rings are stuck and will not move..(the 1st and 2nd rings).  Is this caused by dirt or is that a function of running too rich?

The main bearings like like a fine dirt has polished them.

The crankshaft is a 4340 forged steel Eagle brand.

Now that the motor is torn down I will measure the new piston weights and have the crankshaft balanced and the block cleaned and honed.  Stay tuned.

This is the beautiful Wiseco blower piston for 383 SBC motors with 6" rod.  It's a -29cc dish and the top ring is pretty far down from the heat of combustion at .300". 

NOTE: The old Mahle pistons were sent to Mahle in Tennessee for analysis and they provided a detailed report.  Turns out the cylinder heads and pistons were simply corroded via moisture and long term storage.

Block paint via POR15 Engine black

Now measuring crankshaft main bearing clearnace.

I'm using King bearings and it looks like I need to get a set of "X" to give more clearance.  This blower motor will need at least .002" for the mains and preferably .0025".  Turns out I've had X bearings on order now for the past 2 months and they are out of stock.  Looks like I need to move over to the Clevite since they are in stock.

Upgrade to the piston wrist pin.  This is the Wiseco S718 Tool Steel 0.200" wall thickness.

Oops on Wiseco factory.  The area of the piston under the connecting rod was not machined.  Have to return these and get a new set..

King X (.001" over) bearings arrived an now I can fine tune the main bearing clearance.

I started with standard & X mix on #1 & #2 main position and it was still a bit tight. (.0015).

Then went to X/X on both top and bottom shells of #1 & #2 mains.  This brought it out to .0020".  I re-checked #3,4,5 and they were as before.

Oil galley plug photo verification prior to final install of rear main.

Coated camshaft bearings.

LE blower camshaft.

Rear main clearance at .004" with feeler.

.007" thrust prior to torque of rear main cap.

.007" after torque of rear main cap.

Fitting of Titan gerotor oil pump showed that the rear main stud nut was touching the oil pump.  I changed the nut over to a 5/8" O.D.

Now there is just enough clearance for the oil pump.

The Titan gerotor sportsman oil pump for 8" deep Stef's pan.

Re-using existing pan.  Double check of oil pump fit.  All good except the rear crank counterweight rubs in the usual spot.

You might be able to see the witness mark on the pan where the back corner of the crank counterweight touches.   This is an easy fix by grinding away some of the pan rail.

Reusing the GMPP extreme timing set.

Re-using the hydraulic lifters.  The all seem to be in great shape.

showing the thread-in plugs that are factory drilled for oil weep.  These are for big block Chevy.  I like these better than reusing the stock press-in plugs.

Filed top ring to .020" gap, shown here in this out-of-focus-photo.

2nd ring is filed to .016".  This is per Mahle web site for blown gasoline motor.

To the left is the current method to refurbish the LT1 oil pump drive gear.  The whole assembly is no longer in production.  I buy a new gear and swap it out.

This is the upgrade piston pin from Wiseco: S718 at 132g.

The replacement pistons arrived with the proper machining for the connecting rod.  They were 426 g and now are at 424g.  The crankshaft bobweight is now 1800g, (Piston 424g, pin 132g, clips 4g, oil rail 9g, rings 50.3g, bearings 38.2g, rod big end 458g, rod small end 182g, oil 4g).

Rod bearings are the King HPN and range from .0025 to .0027" (standard size for both top and bottom)

The EFI Connection cam shaft reluctor with their supplied cam bolts.  I still need to grind down on the cam-pin which will interfere with the EFI connection cam sensor housing.

The Wiseco pistons are left and right.  Don't put them on the connecting rods wrong because the spiro lox are a bear. And while I'm thinking of it the piston to cylinder wall clearance is .005" with the minimum recommended .004".  The block was honed slightly and is now at 4.0305".

This is a nice off-the-shelf blower piston.

Pistons are .007" in the hole for 1,3,5,7 and .002 to .005" in the hole for 2,4,6,8.

Rod bolts torqued to 65ft-lb or .0045" stretch and rod side clearance is .020"

Bottom end in and ready for heads.

I test fit (mocked up) the timing cover and cam sensor housing and the cam pin interfered.  Just a little grinding and the pin is the proper length now for the 24x EFI connection system.

Now on to the camshaft degree check.  109 to 111, (call it 110 deg intake centerline).  That just so happens to be exactly what the cam spec is.  110 ICL.

Now the ATI hub and damper is installed so that I can mark Top-Dead-Center with a temporary timing pointer.  This is in preparation for the dyno test.

Cleaning up the head bolt holes with a cleaning tap and brake-clean and bottle brush.  This is best performed with the engine upside-down to keep the goop out of the motor.

Then before I set the heads on I decided to adjust the length of the Titan gerotor oil pump shaft.  It needs to be trimmed to fit into the oil pump drive gear....

...and shortened a bit.

Now the heads are on with head studs.

ARP 12pt

Rockers checked with 7.250" long pushrods.  All good.  Out of focus yes...sorry.

Working on the windage tray.  The oil pump is so large that the windage tray needs to be trimmed to fit around it.  Here I have the tray bent up and away from the rods, (up when the engine is upside-down).

Then to keep the windage tray stiff I cut and bent the excess over to fold it onto itself.  This may look bad but it keeps the tray stiff and it braces against the oil pump so that it won't wobble.

The tray was buffed and cleaned of any fine metal shavings.

Amsoil 30 weight break-in oil.  This oil will be used on the engine dyno.

Spinning pump with drill gives 62psig.

Lifters then pass a slight trickle of oil up each pushrod and here it looks like trans fluid due to the red Amsoil.

Decals en masse.

It was brought to my attention that my dyno water pump was a bit ugly.  As an experiment I tried some rattle-can cast aluminum spray paint.

I think I like the result.

 Ellwein Engines 2017