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Here is our Callies USA steel Dragonslayer crankshaft. This is
balanced by Callies to 1723g (Neutral).
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Crank rod journals at 2.0987"
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Callies Compstar H-Beam rod bolts torqued to 75ft-lb with King
CR807HPN rod bearings.
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A mix of standard and .001" under give 0.0026" bearings
clearance.
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We are using the Mahle D-dish piston with 1mm ring pack. It
it truly the best piston for the $$$.
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Installing the F1 wire clip is a breeze.
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The piston is a -18cc D-dish which will give us 11.07:1 static
compression ratio with the 54cc LE heads.
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Here I have assembled all the piston/rod sets and measured rod
bearing clearance. All rods are at .0026" bearing
clearance.
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The block is spending some time waiting for the POR15 to
dry. We can do main bearing clearance while we wait.
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Rear main is at .0020 with a coated set of Clevite MS909-HK,
(.001" under). I had a set of these very expensive bearings
in the drawer and finally found an engine that can use them.
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The #2,3,4 mains receive my favorite brand of bearings, the King
MB557HP. Mix of .001 and STD.
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Mains generally at .0020" except for #1 which is at
.0017". #1 has the coated MS9099HK.
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Crank is in temporarily so that I can check for piston to deck
height and if the block needs more clearance.
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Right now thrust is at .005" but this is not final.
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The rods do hit the inboard cam-side cylinder bottom. The
yellow marker is the general area that needs further clearancing.
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Next on the agenda is to gap the rings and clearance the block,
(the final cleaning of the block).
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Bottom of cylinders, inboard near the cam-tunnel...that is the
area clearanced today...(then re-wash the block).
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Rear main oil galley plug verification.
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All rods/pistons installed and clearance checked. The rods
clear the inboard area after I spent 1 hour grinding and 1 hour
cleaning. This is the typical bolt-to-block clearance....about
.050"
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Here is the only area that needs a bit more clearance. This
is #2 piston/rod combo.
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I had the rear main bearing clearance too tight, (after review of my
work). Now she's at .0027" with Clevite standard and
.001" mix.
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The oil hole lines up pretty good.
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Camshaft bearings installed.
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LE spec camshaft.
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Camshaft installed.
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Crankshaft installed with rear main thrust check.
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With the rear main cap torqued to spec. I measure .008"
crankshaft endplay.
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Brand new GM rear main seal housing.
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1mm rings gapped for all natural and occasional small nitrous
hit. .020" top and .018" 2nd ring.
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This is the top ring, 1mm, at .020" gap.
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The 2nd ring at .018"
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This is how the ring pack looks on the piston. The thin
rings conform to bore distortion and seal combustion gas better than
ever.
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Pistons carefully installed and rotated on the crankshaft with the
cam timing gear installed to verify no interference between the rods
and the camshaft.
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All good. No clearance problems. All pistons are at
.000" deck height.
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And some touch up painting.
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Callies rod bolts torqued to 75ft-lb with .020" feeler
inserted which is the rod side clearance.
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Cloyes extreme timing set.
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1st time using my new larger diameter degree wheel. Here I'm
finding TDC.
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106 ICL exact. Crank sprocket at "0".
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Cleaned up customer supplied timing cover.
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Used 1996 crank reluctor installed.
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This photo is to show the oil level dip stick tube modification to
allow the stick to pass by the wide main cap.
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The stock windage tray gets trimmed.
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Melling 10552 oil pump installed via ARP stud.
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And Melling oil pump pickup.
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Oil pan test fit. The bottom front of the pan was hammered
so that the #1/#2 connecting rod bolts can clear.
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Pan installed.
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Photo view of the rear main seal housing...new from GMPP.
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High quality stock style Crower lifters. They are soaking in
Amsoil 30W break-in oil. Yes it's red.
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Engine now ready for cylinder heads.
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These are LE2 heads. I do nothing to them except to clean
them up in my parts washer.
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FelPro 1074 head gasket, (.039"). Pistons are
.000" in the hole. This will give 11.07 compression
ratio.
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I spend quite a bit of time cleaning the ARP head bolts in the
parts washer and then adding sealant on the threads and lube on the
washer and under the head.
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Head bolts torque @ 70ft-lb.
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Lifter spider retainer and dog-bones all cleaned up and installed.
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Stock 7.2" pushrods work well.
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Holes getting filled in order to do the oil system pressure
test. Water pump drive plugged by plastic cap, (I have no more
Kennedy $1/2 pieces).
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Borrowed optispark and Jeg's hub to keep the oil in.
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Good pressure test and lifters all filled with oil well.
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Oil pump drive gear gets changed out but I'll use a better core
for that. The one above is cracked. I found a good core in
my take-off drawer.
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Replacing oil pump drive gear with new AC Delco gear.
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Here is another angle that shows the slightly worn gear that was
on the core.
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Gear installed. It cannot take more than 20ft-lb torque.
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Cleaned up intake manifold. Not exactly pristine but all the
major gunk is cleaned away.
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The tray inside was totally black.
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The outside of the manifold cleaned up very well.
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A variety of crankshaft hubs. Left is stock Bbody, middle is
Jeg's Bbody, right is Jeg's Fbody.
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The Jeg's in the center came rusted like that new-in-box.
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Intake manifold on and torque to 32 ft-lb
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Stay tuned. The motor ships soon.
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NOVEMBER 2017:
Engine is installed in the car and running well.
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