ERE-383 #109

ERE-383 #109
LE2 Heads
Camshaft by Fast-Cat Porting Services

I started out the project by breaking a tap in the front oil galley.  It is stuck in there for now.  I'm going to send the block to Bill Koustenis at Advanced Automotive Machine and hope that he can extract it and salvage this block.

Luckily I had another block.  Let's try not to break it off in this one.

Here is a photo directly after cleaning and painting.

The front oil galley holes are threaded and my tap did not break.

Here is the spot where I add clearance for oil to drain back from the left front driver's side cylinder head.

Compstar rods, (6" H-beam)

Mahle -16cc D-dish pistons

Rods/Pistons assembled

Next item: Camshaft bearings installed.

Another photo of the camshaft bearings, (if you can see them).

Oil galley steel ball installed.  (Photo for my records).

Eagle forged crankshaft.  3.75" stroke

Nicely polished and balanced by Clinton Machine Shop
More to come:  
Next will be checking main bearing clearance, rod bearing clearance, ring filing, install rods/pistons/crankshaft.

The next day I begin work by measuring main bearing clearance.  I used a mix of Clevite H and King XP premium bearings.  They are all X oversized (.001 over).

Set crankshaft in place and torqued all mains except for the rear main.  Wedged the crank rear-ward and torqued down on the rear main cap studs.  Crank end play is .004" which is a tad tight but good for a street car.

The center main studs are torqued to
80 ft-lb.
The outer mall bolts are torqued to
45 ft-lb.

Now the ring file fitting is complete.  I went with a gap for Hot Street with occasional mild forced induction to 15 psi.  That is .024" top ring and .020" 2nd ring.

Photo of pistons now with rings.  These are the new Mahle super thin rings.
 1 mm top ring, 
1 mm 2nd ring, 
2 mm oil ring set.

Rod bearing from .0020" to .0022"  Am using King XPN bearings, (premium of premium).

The rod side clearance is .020"

All of the rod bolts have plenty of room.

Zach came over to help me move the car into the garage.

I need the heads/cam/valve train from the car.

Back to the new short block:  Pistons are in the hole 0.015" and the deck is super square.

Here are the galley plugs.  These go behind the timing gear and so it's good to plug the plug before you forget.
 Out-a-sight   Out-a-mind

This is the Dennis Staff designed camshaft.  Street, heavy car, heads flow 258cfm intake at .600" and 214cfm exhaust at .600".

New Cloyes Extreme timing set.  This replaces a stock timing set.  Even the water pump drive gear gets changed.

Camshaft degree check.  107 intake centerline with crank sprocket at [0].  The is exact with the cam card.  See above.

Now I can Locktite the cam bolts after knowing the cam is good.

Cleaned up all of the valve train parts that will be re-used.

The head decking was minimum.  Just enough to clean it up.  The heads were very straight and did not need a lot of milling.

Chamber volume check.

With 56 cc heads and 8.5 cc head gasket I calculate 10.4 compression ratio.

Re-using the owner's head bolts.

Thread sealant on.

I have not found any other guide plate that lines up the rockers on the LT1 valve tips better than these from Manley.

Rockers on.  Pushrods 7.200"
I found one lifter that had the plunger stuck.  Replaced it with a good used lifter.

Melling 10554ST oil pump with pickup at 1/2" clearance from bottom of oil pan.

Windage tray bend away from the rod bolts.

A gift from Ellwein Engines to the owner of this engine. If he decides to go to the LS1 PCM in the future then he won't have to pull the timing cover.  He can just get the EFI connection cam reluctor and sensors.

Timing cover cleaned up as much as possible.

Rear main seal housing centered perfectly and new rear main seal.

Dip stick tube shortened and dip stick verified to be able to pass through the windage tray hole.
Stock crankshaft hub has been installed.  I notched the inside of the crankshaft hub to allow it to engage the woodruff key for the crank timing gear sprocket.

OK! More discovery. During the oil pump spin to test the overall pump/lifter/pushrod system and to verify oil pressure, (which is 70 psig), a pushrod came out of the lifter cup.  At 1st I thought that I did not adjust the lash properly.  Turns out that another lifter was "stuck".

I replaced ALL of the lifters with a nice set of slightly used Crower stock style lifters.  The 2 stuck lifters from the oid set are shown here among the "new" set.

Now all is good.

I did not have a good oil pump drive shaft core and so I'm providing this duper quality Tick performance core.

It even has an oil hole presumably to feed the gear teeth (?).

ALSO a new gear (of course) ------->
To the left:  I took the intake core plugs out to make sure it was clean.  The idle air circuit was pretty clean but the center core plug was gunked up.  I think that center port is for EGR.  

I cleaned up the intake manifold as best as possible and also installed an EGR block off plate for a cleaner look.

New/reburbished Vigilante torque converter. I put that whole quart of oil in before installing on to the transmission.

Split heater hose to protect the AC lines from the sharp A-arm.

TCI neutral flexplate.  You cannot re-use the stock flexplate since it is for an external balance crank.  This engine is all internal balance.

That's it for now.

 Ellwein Engines 2021