ERE-383 #108

ERE-383 #108
Inspect and Rebuild
Original build at ERE-383 #59

Tear-down and inspection VIDEO

The Cola crankshaft was polished (very nicely I might say).  Also the balance was checked.

I reused every main bearing due to the bearings being in perfect shape.  Saves money.

I've got .0025 to .0030" clearance with the mix of X and standard bearings.

Reusing the old pistons but using new Wiseco piston rings. These are spec'ed for this set of pistons.  1/16" / 1/16" 3/16".

I'm going .026" / .026" on the ring gap.

Installing cam bearings

New cam pin.  Not too long, (not too short).

Oil galley ball verified installed for my records.

Crank thrust at .0035"

Crankshaft in and mains torqued, (studs at 80 ft-lb and bolts at 65 ft-lb).

The oil pump mounting stud I used may have been a tad too long. I noticed it bottomed out on the bearing.  This stud in the package is from ARP.  I'll use the ARP stud.

Rods 1, 3, 5, 7 all exactly 0.0025" clearance and all original bearings reused.

I noticed #6 rod has the bushing smashed.  I could not fix that.  It was sort of fused into the rod metal.

The other 1/2 of the rod has a smashed area to receive the smashed bushing material.

Sine this rod had great bearing wear I will leave it as is.

It seats well even with the bushing problem.

Rotating assembly installed.  Still need to degree check the cam shaft.

While there is access I decided to install the rear main seal housing.  These are .003" feeler gauges acting as shims to align the rear main seal housing.

Then I use the old rear seal as a guide to hammer on the new seal.

Rod bolts torqued to 75 ft-lb.  The rod side clearance is .022". (previously I have written down that it was .020")

 Reusing stock oil pump with Jeg's retainer.

The block was honed for a fresh round bore.  It is now at 4.035"  That is good and loose for a blower motor.  Piston to bore is .009"

Pistons are .012" in the hole.  Interesting that I had measured them to be .008" in the hole during the initial build.  My measuring technique must be more refined now.

Oil galleys behind the timing set are plugged.

Right now the double roller timing set is being reused.  It is in good shape.  I have the crank sprocket at the +4 and the cam is at 108* intake centerline which is right at the cam card spec.

Now tackling the used 1st generation 24x kit from EFI Connection.  The cam pin from the previous owner was too long and gouged into the cam sensor housing.  That's not a fatal flaw.  Just pointing that out. This is the front side of the housing and the cam sensor would fit in here.  I made sure the poked metal was flat.

Then I made a blunder by not checking fitment carefully.  The crank sprocket for the 24x will jam into the crank seal lip inside the timing cover, (if you use a double roller timing set).  This 24x previously owned sprocket was for a stock single roller apparently.  I busted the timing cover when torquing the bolts to 12 ft-lb.  Will address that in a few days after some parts from EFI Connection arrive.

Refurbished TFS 21* cylinder heads.

Dennis Staff of Fast-Cat Porting Service honed the valve guides and did a valve job.  Also cut the valve guides for .500" tall valve seals and installed springs to spec.  The heads had the deck milled slightly for a clean-up.  The intake valve springs are at 
1.720" - 178lb closed
1.155" - 404lb open
Coil bind is 1.050" so there is .102" clearance.
The exhaust springs are similar.

Check of combustion chamber volume.


Heads on with Cometic MLS head gaskets .027" thick.
ARP head bolts (re-used) at 70 ft-lb.

The pushrod guides do not line up the rocker tips.

Flipped the pushrod guides upside down and now they work.

7.300" pushrod being reused.  It looks to work well.

EFI Connection double roller timing set and crank reluctor

Re-doing the cam degree check.  I started off with the sprocket at the advance 2 deg position.  Had to find top dead center with the heads on.  LT1 spark plug holes don't angle such that a normal pistons stop tool works.

Photo to the right shows my new and favorite method for a piston stop.  This long 3/8" drive extension goes all the way in the #1 spark plug hole and to the far cylinder wall.  Then the piston comes up and gently touches...mark the it again the other way....etc. etc.  I push the piston stop tool (extension) all the way to the far side of the bore in order to be consistent.  

With the new timing set at +2 then the cam intake centerline was exact 108 deg.  (exact as cam card).

24x reluctor on before the timing cover.

Used timing cover.  Previously had the cam pin too long.  Just showing all the blemishes now before I put the cover on.

Look at that.  Perfectly centered.

Cam sensor.

I noticed the crank bolt was broken way back when I took it out.  Then forgot all about it.  The other part is probably in the crank nose.  There is plenty of thread area still available in the crank nose.

I'm donating a new crank bolt.  I checked and this will thread all the way in and not bottom out on the remnant bolt piece.

Crank bolt in and torqued to 90 ft-lb.  I used 2 washer to space it out.

I see the slight wear in the oil pump drive gear.  Thought I would replace the gear but then noticed the replacement is just an iron gear.  This current one looks to be an even better quality.  Since it is only slightly worn I think it would be best to re-use the old gear.

65 psig drill pressure test.

I stopped here for the day.  The lifters all pumped up oil quickly except 2 of them.  The associated pushrod was slightly out of the lifter seat.  I tried re-adjusting and they both went out of the seat again.  Then I tried 2 new Crower lifters (stock style) and the Crowers would not pass oil after 15 min of drill spinning.   Now it's time to think and investigate further.

GMPP LS1 lifters.  I suspect that these are made by Johnson Lifters.  Part number GM 88958689.  $383 at Summit Racing.  A good reliable and affordable lifter is hard to find now-a-days.

I don't have a Johnson lifter to compare this to but it looks like a Johnson (except for the bow tie logo).

Crower stock style (in wrapper), Comp in middle, GMPP on right.

Lifters all installed and pressurized with oil.  They take a long time to send oil up to the pushrod and that is typical of the high performance slow bleed lifters.

Dyno intake gasket (not-new).  After the dyno session the engine will receive a new gasket.

Temporary timing pointer installed and verified to be exact top dead center.
Dyno session scheduled for Monday August 23rd.
It did not go well.  I don't think the rings seated well.  Going to re-balance and get Mahle pistons 4.040".  Block will get a bore and hone to 4.040"

Little known fact that Mahle will have any piston coated if you ask.  Cost a bit more but may be worth it for some applications.  This is a -26cc dish and a 4.040" piston.

I and bummed out here.  There are oil puddles in every cylinder.  

Disassembly of engine so that I can get the crankshaft to the balance shop.

Bearings look great!
New piston and one rod and the bearings and the rings/pin/locks all go to the balance shop.  The block goes to the machine shop too for a bore to 4.040"

 Ellwein Engines 2021