ERE-383 for EFI Connection

ERE-383 for EFI Connection
4-Bolt Splayed cap 383 for Fbody street car. 
AFR 195 LT4 Heads, Eagle forged Crank, Compstar rods, Mahle -5cc Pistons

One of these are assigned to Mike Noonan (the EFI Connection ERE-383).

For some reason this is the only photo I salvaged of the balance parts.  Mahle flat top 383 pistons #930200630 with the 1mm ring pack.  The best piston value for the money.

383 crankshaft from Eagle.  I send it off to Clinton Machine for balance and journal polish even though it's brand new.

AFR heads #1039-716 with the 7 degree steel retainer upgrade. I ordered milling to 62cc but they did not do that.  The heads are at 65cc.  They did include my requested spring upgrade.  The heads have the PAC 1.270"OD spring good for .650" lift and 7000 rpm hydraulic roller.

Doing block prep on 2 blocks today.  EFI Connection block is to the right with NO freeze plugs.  They are each getting the front oil galleries tapped for threaded plugs.

POR-15 black.  EFI Connection block in the background.

Notice that the deck surface is only slightly decked.  I only take away what is required to make it square.  Intake manifolds fit better when blocks are minimum decked.

Today is the day to work on rotating assembly mock-up.  I'll measure bearing clearance and install the full rotating assembly and mark where more block clearance is needed (if any).

3 different sized main studs due to different sized main caps and 3 longer windage tray studs.

Mix of bearing sizes give the clearance that I'm happy with.  The main bearing clearance is .0025/.0027/.0027/.0028/.0037" from #1 to #5.  Using King M557XP bearings from standard to .001" under to .001" over.  Mixing 1/2 shells to get as close to .0025" as possible---except at the #5 thrust bearing of which the target is .0035".

Now all are removed and the crankshaft will be set in place.

Eagle crankshaft balanced by Clinton Machine to 1725g neutral

Compstar 6" rods and Mahle flat top pistons.

Piston to bore clearance verified to be .003"

King 807HPN bearings. All 8 rods measured from .0023 to .0026" clearance.

Some rods are too close to the block (not shown in this photo).  I'll mark the area and grind after checking all rod/piston combos.

Here is a snap shot from my borescope which shows the cam tunnel area and the rod having plenty of clearance.  I can only see this area using my borescope.

All assembled and mocked up.  The areas marked in yellow are the areas that require more clearance.  Only about 4 spots but the entire rotating assembly will come out and the block will be clearanced and then cleaned.

Also took the opportunity to measure piston to deck clearance, (preliminary prior to full torque of caps and rods).  #1 is at .014" IN the hole.  Also notice the paint is smudged at the top-front.  I did not notice until seeing this photo.

This is the block after cleaning and additional rod clearance.

Photo of steel ball oil galley plug, (for my records).

I had a set of coated cam bearings so why not install them for Mike's motor.  :)

Crankshaft installed and rear main thrust verified at .006".  This is before and after the rear main cap is torqued to 80ft-lb.

Here we have a photo of the front oil galley plugs.  These have been threaded by me in order to install the pipe plugs.  Notice the lifter valley plugs have oil weep holes.

Billet core camshaft designed by Dennis Staff at Fast-Cat porting service.  This is on an Erson core.

.602/.584" lift...234/238 duration at .050"...112.5 LSA

Ring filing set up.  The rings are 1mm thick.  Mahle pioneered the "thin" ring pack.  I'm going to gap the rings for street performance.  0.020" top ring and 0.018" second ring.

Top ring at .020"

2nd ring at .018"

Washed the pistons/rods again in the SafetyKleen parts washer to get them ready for ring installation.

Oiled the rings with 30w oil and then wiped the excess off.  oiled the piston skirts.  Be careful not to put too much oil on the piston.  Oil is good but not too much for initial start-up.  This is a nice close up of the premium piston rings.

#1 and #2 rods/pistons in. Now it is time to install the timing set.  I need to verify that all rods can clear the camshaft.  The Compstar rods have good cam clearance but you always have to check.

EFI Connection timing set for 24x crank and 1x cam

Cam not degreed yet.  That is the next step after installing all of the rods/pistons.

The timing set is nice in that it has advance or retard by 2 deg increments.

Would you look at the size of that reluctor!  Much bigger than the previous version.  How can it fit under the timing cover?

EFI Connection is planning to make available a 2-piece LT1 timing cover.  This is a pre production unity. 

All pistons/rods installed and no cam interference.

Still to-do: torque the rod bolts and degree check the cam.

Rod bolt torque and rod side clearance.  Side clearance is .022"

Now finding how far the pistons are in the hole.  I measure at the 4 corners to see how square the decking is. Here is where I zero out the 2 gauges on the deck...

...then move them over to the piston.  Here at #1 piston it is -.015" (in the hole).  Over at #7 it's -.014"

And #2 is -.017" and #8 is -.016"  Not perfect but it rarely is.

Zero on the crank sprocket gave me 108 deg ICL and the cam card calls for 108-110 deg (it's 112+4).  I moved the crank sprocket to the -2 position and now I have 110.5deg ICL.  I might move it back to 108.

Now the EFI Connection 24x reluctor is installed on the crank nose.

And now the 2-piece timing cover.

And now my decal.

Ellwein/Stef's pan.  Some modification needs to be performed.

Checking fit and for interference.  One longer main stud hits.

I ground down the top of the stud, cleaned it and reinstalled / torqued it.

Dip stick and windage tray mods to allow the oil stick to pass through the windage tray.  Also the dip stick tube needs to be shortened in order for the stick to bend up and over the main cap.

A subtle thing is that the dip stick tube needs to be this short so that the stick can be removed...make the bend...without getting snagged.

Turns out the pan needed more material removal because the oil dip stick bumped into this area.  All of that was removed by tin snips and then smoothed with dremmel.  Then to the parts washer for cleaning.

Verified that the stick does not bump into anything and that it follows the intended path.  I've seen more than one 383 stroker with splayed caps have their dip stick tip missing because it cannot pass the main caps without bending fore or aft and then the crankshaft hits it.

Now centering the rear main seal housing.  .003" feeler at each of 3 centering nubs.

Dennis Staff (the head porter and cam designer) recommended that I put the cam back to 108* ICL.  With this "one-off" 2-piece timing cover that is easy to do.  No RTV mess and wasted timing cover gasket.  I just pulled the cover and that gives access to everything I need.

I put the oil pan on temporarily so that I can see if it would fit well.  It does.  If this engine were in the car I can see that even the crank sprocket can be pulled easily.

Timing set set at zero.

Melling 10554ST oil pump now with Canton pickup screen.  Pickup-to-Pan clearance is a bit on the large side at 5/8". But that is good when using a deep pan like this 8" deep Stef's pan.

Pan on with gasket but not RTV'ed yet.  I want to check for clearance.  All good.

Notice the oil sight glass installed in place of the oil level switch.  This pan was ordered with turbo drain back fittings too.  They won't be used on Mike's car (for now).

Notice that the reluctor is centered perfectly.

Head gasket is the .026" Mr. Gasket.  The photo to the left is showing the drivers side front where I grind on the block to give a bit more room for oil  drain back.

One last look at the AFR heads combustion chamber prior to installing the head on the block.

ARP head bolts cleaned in the parts washer and then gooped with thread sealant.

7/16" ARP rocker studs (from AFR).  Also washed in the parts washer and then RTV added to the threads for the ones that go to the intake runner.  The exhaust studs get thread grease only.

Scorpion rockers in place of the Lunati that I was going to use.  Lunati does not offer 1.65" ratio.  These should be as good as the Lunati.  It is a 1.65/1.60" split set.

7.200" pushrod mocked up with temporary stock style hydraulic lifters.  The witness mark is pretty good.

Also checked with the geometry tool.  7.200" is the fit.

A few spots have the pushrod rubbing the side of the pushrod hole in the head.  And so to keep away from that I have to set the lifter guide where the rocker tip is just a bit off-center.  See photo to the right.

This is the compromise so that the pushrod does not rub the cylinder head.

Still waiting for Johnson lifters to arrive but the pushrod/rocker mockup and test fit is complete with my temporary set of stock lifters.

7.200" pushrods were too short.  7.250" will be almost perfect.

Decided to go with the Comp steel roller rockers.  One set is 1.6 Ratio Ultra Pro Magnum and the other set is 1.65 ratio UltraPro Magnum XD.

Mike Noonan's 2-piece cover and this nifty crank sensor.

With 7.250" pushrods the rocker tip witness mark is good.

Johnson lifters.  Stock style.

Valve train set up.  The preload is 1/4" turn then a bit more to tighten the polylok.

Press on of the crankshaft hub with my threaded rod.

Temporary valve covers.  I need to clearance the inside of the Mike's valve covers to fit over the Pro Magnum rockers.

I made sure to RTV the "top" side of the oil pan gasket.  I don't RTV the "bottom" side (oil pan side).  If the pan leaks oil then and only then will I RTV the bottom surface of the gasket.

Rear plugs need to be installed and the rear main seal.

Also need to make a timing pointer....

Why the carburetor manifold?  I'm taking her to the engine dyno soon while the EFI intake is being ported.  After the carb dyno we will be doing the EFI dyno.

Rear main seal on.

Dennis Staff of Fast-Cat Porting Service.  He drove over last week to make sure he had accurate measurements for the intake manifold port matching.  The heads should be on the engine in order to get the most accurate (assurance) that the ports will line up.

This is the 1st time I've seen the process.  Dennis marks the outline of the head ports up near the valve cover rail so that he can see the marks when he puts the intake manifold on.

Then with the manifold on (and shims acting as gaskets of exact thickness) he can transfer the marks to the intake manifold ports.

And more measuring...

And port size transferring from head to intake.

This is the exact corner radius of the cylinder head port.

Here is a photo I missed a few days back when inserting into the build page.  Why am I a fan of the Johnson lifter when it cost more that $400 for the set?  They are 100% QA tested for bleed-off and they are 100% USA in material and workmanship AND they are always in stock.  I'm getting them from Brian Tooley Racing right now.
Make shift timing pointer.

Oil pressure test with drill

Dyno valve covers

Jim Morgan of Morgan International

Click on the dyno sheet for a link to the dyno video

After dyno rear main seal check.  All dry.

EFI intake manifold is back from porting and power coating
The fins will be machined to remove the powder coating and then the engine will be set up for EFI dyno testing.  Soon.

Photos below are of the EFI dyno set up beginning with installing the intake manifold and quick test on the engine test stand, (prior to actual engine dyno).

Oil pump drive gear.  This is a used core with a new gear.  I torque to 20ft-lb and usually use a washer to spread the load which keeps the tab from cracking.

Cleaned up from the carburetor manifold RTV.  It is a tedious and careful process so that dirt does not get into the engine.

After cleaning the intake the core plugs are installed.  The intake was powder coated and then the top fins were machined to remove the coating.  It looks great.

Here I have simply set the manifold on the engine while I install all the various fittings.  The powder coating still needs to be removed from the sealing surfaces (Throttle body and head/intake flange).

Looks good doesn't it?  I'm bummed about the dyno rusty water stains.  It should clean up but in gets into the cracks and crevices and oil pan flange.

All cleaned up.  I used a very coarse wire brush on a drill. This photo is taken after SafetyKleen and brake clean and air nozzle dry.

Notice the heads are NOT port matched to the  LT4 GMPP 777 gasket.  But the intake manifold is port matched to the heads. 

EFI Connection Holley harness.  I love it!

Happy to see things like this...fuel pressure and oil pressure sensor terminals.

 Ellwein Engines 2020