King ERE-383 for Kent "The Gentle Giant"
Kent has named his motor. . .
"The King of Spades"

Here is a [link] to his web site created by BOSTIC
Aug. 20th, 2010: Kent run 9.99 @ 138 and 10.03 @ 139mph"
This King ERE383 motor is for Kent in Umea Sweden our goal is to match power of JeZus #1, (Anders Envall's 1100 hp Autoshop Built 396LT1 with ATI F-1R blower).  And so the plan is to copy as much of Ander's motor combo as possible.  Advanced Induction (LINK) has helped with the project by providing fully ported Trick Flow cylinder heads and premium valve train components. Ai was also hired to specify the camshaft.  They provided a mechanical roller billet core with "ever wear" gear.  Cam specs are proprietary Ai (around .620" lift and 245deg duration @.050" ).  McKeown Motorsports Engineering in Waldorf Maryland provided engineering and technical assistance by designing the piston and sourcing the ATI F-2 blower kit.[LINK to MME]



Kent test fitting the F2


Kent goes 9.99 without a 1-2 shift.




Motor on Dynamometer May 4th, 2007
Please "right-click-save-as"
The motor is tested for sound operation at McKeown Motorsports Engineering [LINK to MME]
About 540hp at 6000rpm and 520ft-lb torque at 4700rpm running with GM LT1 carburetor intake and 1000cfm carburetor (somewhat rich).  The motor is 8.68:1 static compression ratio with very heavy blower pistons and not truly built for running all natural.


How about a nice cup of Ai. CNC machined and finished to perfection Trick Flow LT1 heads.


Callies custom crankshaft.  Notice the big block Chevy nose.  That idea may not be original but I got the idea from Anders Envall's engine and his builder The Late Lennart "Bagarn" Bergqvist of Autoshop Racing Engines.


Ai was also relied upon to supply the valve train and ported LT1 intake manifold.  The lifters are Morel UltraPro HIPPO mechanical roller.  The cam is custom and of a billet 8620 steel core.  Of course you can see the Jesel shaft rocker box.  The heads have the CT1226 PSI brand valve springs with Xceldyne Ti-17 retainers and machined locks and locators.


Oliver billet rods, (5.850"), Clevite H-series bearings, and Callies Magnum crankshaft, (made to order).


Many aspects of this project are taken directly from knowledge base of Anders Envall and the Blackout SS project.  ATI provides the machine work and crank seal for a big block Chevy crank snout.


LT4 extreme timing set needs to have the crank sprocket machine for the 1.6000" BBC snout.  The ATI damper hub for LT4 BBC crank in rear and LT4 SBC in front.


Here is the foundation.  It's an LT1 block machined by the fine folks at Golen Engine Services, [LINK]
Chad Golen has been providing fully machined LT1 blocks to Ellwein Engines and they have all been very well finished.  This one is align honed for Callies splayed main caps.


Another view of the Golen block.  This is "as delivered".  It is probably very clean but I do another scruby-dubby just to make sure.


After cleaning and oiling of the bock I do a test fit of one or two piston/rod combos to see if more clearancing is needed.  Chad's blocks has all been spot on for "pre-clearance".


This is the custom blower piston that Mark McKeown of McKeown Motorsports Engineering designed for this project.  The plan today is to mock up one rod/piston combo.  This Oliver rod is oh-so-sweet.


2 spiro-lox per side.  One shown here just for a pose.  While winding that thing in I immediately noticed that the piston coating really is slippery. McKeown Motorsports Engineering supplies all of my ROSS custom pistons.


OK, now the rod/piston is in #3 hole.
Next I will rotate the crank and check for clearance.


Piston comes out of the hole by about what feels like .010"


Very good here at the oil pan rail side


The other place is the cam side of the cylinder bottom, (the cam interference will also be checked later).  You cannot see it but there is a mile of clearance.


And the other spot to check is the piston skirt and crank counterweight at the bottom of the stroke.  Looks good here.

The next day
Cam bearing install and measuring main bearing clearance

Performance coated cam bearings being installed.  For LT1 remember that the HELMS manual says the oil holes are installed as follows:  #1 at 1 and 5 o-clock, #2, #3, #4 at 5 o-clock, #5 at 12 o-clock


Now preparing to measure for main bearing clearance.
The way I like to do it is to install the main bearings and torque the main caps and measure the clearance of the main bearings and subtract from the measurement of the crankshaft main journals.  I like .0020" to .0025" for 1,2,3,4 mains and .0025" to .0030" for #5.

The motor is the "King 383" version and so is fitted with Callies splayed main caps and ARP studs.


Stick a dial bore gauge in and zero it out.


The micrometer is set at the crankshaft main journal reading of (2.4480") which seems to be a .001" thinner than most crankshafts.  I am getting readings of .0030" to .0040" of bearing clearance.  Not good.  I need to order a set of .001" under bearings. 


The flash is killing me.  The best photo I can do showing my stretch gauge and torquing the Oliver rod bolts, (7/16" Oliver/ARP WSB). These need .0053 to .0058" stretch which seems to be about 80ft-lb (or 30ft-lb and 40deg).


Again use the bore gauge and set to zero.


Tools of the trade.  I set the bore gauge in my digital caliper and the micrometer just to make sure they match.  The Oliver rods with Clevite H-series bearings come in at .0025" clearance.  That's 2.1015" rod minus 2.0990" main rod journal = .0025"

4-27-07 more assembly:

mixing .001 and standard size main bearing for good clearance.

 


Since main bearing clearance was too big using standard size Clevites I will mix these .001" under bearings with standard size bearing halves.

Some journals required .001" for both bearing shell halves and some required the mix of .001 and standard.  Main clearance is now .0015, .0020, .0020, .0020, .0025" from #1 to #5-thrust.

Then I installed the Callies Magnum crankshaft and set the thrust bearing shells and crankshaft endplay is .005"

I want to file the piston rings but I'm going to ask around to all the engine builders I know for advise on ring gap.  So while waiting to make my decision on gap I can put the cam in and the timing gear and degree the cam.

Cam handle tool helped slide it in

This is a Cloyes crank sprocket that has been machined to fit on the BBC snout.  Also the keyway needed to be broached.  Jimmy Reichard at Reichard Racing did this work.  I failed to communicate that I also needed the 1/4" key-way 180 opposite of the stock key-way.

The sprocket on the left is from the Cloyes 9-3151 timing set and the sprocket to the right is the GMPP version.  I have them shown side by side to show the difference in BBC crank snout size to SBC snout size.

I took the sprocket back to Reichard Racing and now it has the 1/4" keyway.

Rats.  My install bushings are not wide enough for the BBC snout so this is as far as I can get the sprocket to go.  I need a wider bushing.  Will shop around Saturday 4-28-07.

Now to the cleaning of the Oliver rods.  The protective shipping oil needs to be removed.  I re-oil them with WD-40.

Assembling piston to rod.

This took about 1 hour.
4-28-07 degree cam, file fit rings, install piston/rods onto crank:
Time to put on the timing gear and degree the cam.  This is a very much needed check because the crankshaft has custom keyways and the crank sprocket also.  This photo is of the cam sprocket and chain and water pump gear for the Cloyes 9-3151 (extreme duty LT4).

Went to the hardware store this morning and bought a 2" I.D. pipe to help me press on the custom machined sprocket. But it won't go as far as needed.  It's about .020" away from fully flush with the crank shoulder.  The sprocket needs to be honed out to a larger inside diameter.  I can still degree the cam though.

Close up of the timing set installed, (but the crank sprocket is not fully seated).

I degreed the cam with the single roller extreme timing set and it was 2 deg retarded.  I replaced that timing set with a SBC/BBC double roller from Cloyes, (a mix of timing set 9-3145 with crank gear S-101BB).  The double roller set up was 1 deg advanced.  For now I'm going to stick with the double roller set up.  That means Kent will need to use an electric water pump.

Now I begin the file fitting.  This top ring is of chrome steel and 1.2mm.  The rings are a custom set from Total Seal.  1.2/1.2/3.0mm.   It came with low tension oil rings but I swapped those out for standard tension.  I'm gapping at .024" top and .026" 2nd.

It's a funny looking top ring.  I do the top ring and then the 2nd ring and leave them in the cylinder bores.

Then when it's time to put the rings on the pistons I do the oil rings, then pull the 2nd ring from the bore, then pull the top ring from the bore.  All in a nice sequence.

Piston ready to go.
Filed #1 cylinder top piston ring too wide.  Have new set of rings on rush order from Total Seal.  Will continue with engine assembly and get the heads on and measure for pushrod length.  When the new ring set arrives I'll take the left side head off and pull #1 piston and re-ring it.  Also had #3 and #7 rods bump the bottom of the block and need to take the pistons/rods/crank out and grind and clean the block in that area. Check back Sunday 4-29-07 for update.

In the mean-time, here are photos of the fully assembled bottom end.  Oliver billet I-beam rods and Oliver/Callies splayed main caps with ARP main studs/bolts.

Pistons 2,4,6,8.  I took the time to check where the pistons were with relation to the block deck and they are at.  Tah-Dah!  0.000" (Zero).  Now I plan to use an "off-the-shelf" Cometic MLS head gasket (.040")

I took the whole motor apart and clearanced the block in the areas where the conn-rods hit.  After a thorough cleaning and reassembly I think it's time to torque the rod bolts.  The Oliver rods use 7/16" ARP WSB bolts which require .0053 to .0058" stretch.  It takes 90ft-lb for that with ARP bolt lube.  

I don't think I've shown the double roller timing set.  Here it is.

In preparation for Sunday final assembly I decided to clean these mechanical roller lifters and then soak in oil overnight.

The next day:  This is Kent's custom machined timing cover.  It has the crankshaft hole machined wider by ATI, (the transmission company).  ATI also provided the seal.

Here is a close up of the reverse face of a J. F. Kennedy  U.S.A. Half Dollar.

Head studs cleaned from packaging oil and threads sealed with "Right Stuff" RTV.

Advanced Induction CNC ported Trick Flow cylinder heads.  I'm using a FelPro head gasket right now for the dyno testing and will install multi-layer-steel (Cometic or Flatout) brand prior to shipping to Sweden.

Oops.  Cannot use the top 4 ARP head studs with a JESEL shaft rocker system.  JESEL supplies very compact headed bolts to use instead.  I torqued the bolts and studs to 75ft-lb with ARP moly lube.

Now is a good time to check for pushrod length and also rocker tip to valve tip geometry.  Intake rocker needs a 7.700" pushrod and the exhaust needs 7.750".

First check with .100" shims under shaft rocker stand.  This has the rocker tip riding too far "outboard" of the valve tip.

2nd check without the shims.  Perfectly centered rocker tip to valve tip.
Now I wait for my Total Seal ring set so that I can re-do the ring gap for #1 cylinder.  I know the pushrod length needed and can have Ai. send their house brand of .375" OD chromemoly pushrods.  Until then I can go over the small details of the engine such as rear main seal housing and proper gerotor oil pump drive shaft length.  I can also paint the block.  The motor will be tested using the GMPP LT4 carburetor intake manifold and rear mounted distributor.  The dyno testing is to make sure all is well with the engine prior to shipping.

My favorite oil pump.  This is an high tech gerotor oil pump by Titan.  The gerotor design is less prone to cavitation, (the biggest problem for spur gear oil pumps).  Hopefully the pump will provide a solid 65psig at WOT.

The pump comes with a tool steel quality drive shaft and it must be trimmed to fit.  I whittle it down to fit into the LT1 oil pump drive gear and also shorten it just a hair.

The drive shaft is shown here.  It cannot be too tight.  When the motor heats up and things get all crazy with 25psig of F2 blower boost then the shaft won't bind.

The OIL pan of OIL pans.

This is a Billet Fabrication SBC pan built especially for Ellwein Engines.  It was test fit already on a customers Impala SS and only a few modifications are needed to the chassis....that is mostly just a motor mount trim.  There is a very big "power" kickout on the right side which is for crank windage control.  The sump is 8.5" deep and very wide.

The power kickout.

Test fit onto Kent's King of Spades 383LT1

It fits very well.  There are very few hold down bolts because of the stroker notches and the windage kickout.  The super thick flange helps to press down on the oil pan gasket.  I'm going to try this pan on the dyno without RTV.  I think it will not leak.

Received more top rings from Total Seal UPS overnight.  Replaced #1 piston top ring which was filed too wide by accident.  Pushrods Ai arrive soon.

Time to button up as much as possible.  I'll put the oil pan on and pre-lube the engine and also check oil pressure.  The Titan pump is adjustable.

Oil pan bolts on and squishes the FelPro gasket very well.  I am not using RTV.

Here is the pressing on of the ATI big block Chevy crank damper hub onto the Callies big block Chevy crank snout.

The hub is on.  Oil pan is on. All oil plugs are installed.

OOPS.  Forgot the windage tray.  Will take pan off and install tray as well as up the oil pressure.


Flipped the engine upright and filled with 6 quarts of Shell Rotella non-detergent 30 weight oil.  No leaks that I can see.  The drill pre-lube spin of the oil pump only gives me 57psig.  I will adjust the pump to push up the relief set point.

Advanced Induction sent CV products 7.750" and 7.700" 3/8" diameter pushrods.  These are thick and stiff.

Ai widened the pushrod holes just for these 3/8" O.D. pushrods.

All the Jesel rockers are installed and lash is set to .015" cold.  That should widen to .02x" hot.

I took the oil pan off in order to turn up the relief spring set point.  I turned that adjusting allen 2 full turns clockwise.  Now I have 63psig oil pressure.

Then I cannot forget the windage tray.

Always have to trim these for either the oil pump or for the oil pan.  I added a 4th Milodon taller main stud to help keep this tray steady.

Before installing the oil pan I widened the dip-stick hole.

Then I installed the dyno intake manifold, the GMPP LT4 carburetor manifold.

Almost finished and ready for a trip to McKeown Motorsports engine dyno.

Those a brand new ProForm valve covers.  I don't think I'll send those to the dyno to keep them from getting scratch.  I'll find a set of valve covers from one of my cars to use instead.

5-3-07:  Trucking motor to the engine dynamometer. I borrowed valve covers from my Impala SS and a steam pipe for the heads.

If you click on the photo to see the larger photo you should be able to see the timing pointer.  I checked the pointer position and it's dead-nuts-on top dead center.

I wrapped her up some more and set it in the bed of my Chevy Silverado.

Ready to go.
Now that dyno testing is satisfactory, MME will begin work on the crankshaft girdle.  A new web page has been made to show the progress of that.  [LINK] Before the motor ships to Sweden it should have an inspection and certainly the Cometic head gaskets should be installed.  See below.


1st job for the inspection is to take the heads off.  This photo is taken just prior to taking off the Jesel rockers.


The valve tips have a good indication of proper geometry from the Jesel rocker tips.  The witness mark looks to be right in the center.


Heads off.  Cylinder walls and pistons look super!!  The spark plugs looked very good also.

The gasoline gunk came off pretty easy due to the hard anodized piston coating.  Taking a break tonight but later I'll have to take out the head studs and clean the block head deck and install the Cometic gaskets.  After that I'll check the bottom end and finally install the motor into my 95 Impala SS for one final operation check.


This is my valve train organizer.


I installed the Cometic gasket and now I'll install the shaft rockers.

Turn the crank to where the intake and exhaust of a cylinder are on the cam base circle and just bolt on the rocker pair.  No adjusting needed if you already had the lash set.  Shaft rockers make pit maintenance much easier.

A photo of the very pleasing to the eye valve train components.

Getting ready to install the intake manifold.  All surfaces clean with "brake-clean" and "The Right Stuff" Permatex RTV at the ends.

Intake manifold bolted on.  How do you like the Edelbrock AirGap?

Kent's engine needs to be flipped upside down for the oil pan removal and bottom end inspection.  That 350LT1 in the background was in my Impala SS and some of the parts from that motor will go on Kent's motor during testing.

Do you like the valve covers?   I do.

Oil pan off.  Here is the bottom end.  It looks good.  But there was a little bit of metal in the oil pan that looked like small pieces from the windage tray.  The piston and cylinder walls look super!

Some close-ups of the bottom end.  It looks super clean.

More bottom end photos

Windage tray off for a better view.

Here is rod bearing #8.  It looks very good.  I can still see my bore gauge marks.

Here is main cap #2.  It looks pretty good.

Now here is proof I did not forget to turn back the oil pressure.  I had turned up the oil pressure during the initial build.  Well, on the engine dyno the oil pressure was 110psig at 6500rpm.  That pump was pumping too much.  Now I am taking the oil pressure adjuster back 2 turns to where it started at.  Titan sets them prior to shipping and I ask for 65psig.
So now the oil pump is set back to original relief set point.  The bottom end is buttoned up.  The oil pan is on with RTV.  In a few days I will install the motor into my 95 DGGM Impala SS for final testing.


I'm transferring parts from my 350LT1 onto JeZus2 (The King of Spades).  Opti, water pump, throttle body, hoses, etc


A fuzzy photo but you can still see something I just noticed.  The rockers on the left head are just a tad "off"   They ride the valve tip a little bit off to the left (in this photo).

I can take off all the rockers, (a quick and easy process).  I loosened and pushed the shaft stand a little bit in the direction that would make the rockers more center.

Now the rockers are close to being aligned (fore and aft).

Now to address the oil pan to motor mount bracket interference.  Only on the right side.  The bracket touches the windage kickout of the Billet Fabrication oil pan.   Just a little.

So I just took a grinder to the bracket and cleared away just enough metal and now in bolts to the block without touching the oil pan.

Tuesday 5-22-2007.  I really want to see if the motor will fit in an Impala SS engine bay with the big oil pan.  If it doesn't fit then all is not lost. . .I can use the Ellwein/Stef's oil pan.  But I really like the Billet Fabrication pan.  So do you notice anything missing on the motor right now that is essential to have prior to installing the motor? (very embarrassing).

Engine bay with lots of room for an engine.  I did not forget to install the Yank torque converter.  I just don't have a photo of it.

At this point I'm wondering if the big sump in the oil pan is going to allow me to shoe-horn this motor onto the motor mounts.

You might notice that very important component (missing) in this photo.

Oh YEA!  She went onto the mounts without any trouble.

A little close up of the oil pan and it's fit into the Impala SS chassis.  The motor is tilted rear down in this photo.

I'll stop at this point.  Today's goal was to get the motor on the mounts and bolted to the tranny.  That did happen and it was easier than I had hoped.  There was one oversight though and I'll address that tomorrow.


The next day.  Ha!  the flexplate slips up and in without having to pull the engine back out.  The tranny is not bolted to the engine yet so there was ample room to reach the flexplate bolts.


The trans and the torque converter are all bolted to the engine.  This is how far down the oil pan sticks out under the crossmemeber.

Side view.

Front view.

Hoping that the starter will fit.  I test-fit the starter a few months ago on a block in the shop and I had to remove some metal on the big mounting flange.  The starter body is clocked to where I think it will fit the best. Passenger side long tube headers, (G-hann).  

The oil pan fits nicely.

One day I would like to have my 8 year old G-hann headers re-coated.

I could not get the MSD starter to work.  It was just too big and too close to having terminals touching the engine block and dipstick. I called Billet Fabrication's Jeff Johnston and he said to get a Tilton mini starter.

Even though this Tilton starter is small, I still need to take it apart and insert the two pieces past my headers and the big oil pan

Stick the motor up in there first.

Then install the mounting flange to the starter motor.  

The motor just needs a few odds and ends prior to start up.
I loaded in an old PCM tune from Ed Wright for a solid roller 383 with 4L60E from back in Y-2003 and the Tulsa ISSCA Nats.  That tune should be close to what is needed for this motor.  I started up the motor and it runs well and lopes quite nicely.  This weekend will be used to street test the motor.

May 26th:  This motor is a monster even without the blower.  Ai provided a very good heads/cam package.  The street testing was fun.  Oil pressure is good.  No water leaks.  No oil leaks.  Here is a start-up and idle video for you. 
[Right click save as]


Aug 10th.
Getting ready to ship motor.  Have been waiting for some custom work such as a crank girdle.  I performed a 2nd bearing inspection for peace-of-mind.  The motor was run a few days on the street and at the track.  It ran very well.  But my 4L60E broke while at the track and made squeaking noises.  To make sure that was not from the motor, (cam or bearings), I ran the motor without the tranny attached and it sounded fine.  But here is a visual inspection also.


#1 main cap removed and at first I was worried.  The bearing looked burned at the edges.  The crank looks fine.  But the dark spots at the edge of the bearings look burned.  Well, I forgot that that is what the bearing looks like brand new.  See the brand new bearing on top and the used bearing below it.

The other main bearings looked fine and this thrust bearing has no marking on it what-so-ever, (except the marks from the dial bore gauge).

The rod bearings all look pretty much like this.

Motor is packed and ready for export to Sweden.  The crate meets E.U. specifications.

Ready for delivery to Lufthansa

Motor now in Umea Sweden and installed in Kent's Impala SS.  Test fitting of a custom made crankshaft support.  Lots of things in the way.  I hope to do what he is doing to one of my cars here in the U. S. A.

Will if fit under the hood?


www.Karl-Ellwein.org 2007, Ellwein Engines 2007, , email Karl Ellwein