Sorry, this engine short bock is SOLD:   $2500.00   No Core Required

EDIT: 4-27-06:  The short block is SOLD!  I can build another one for you though.  Call or Email.   410-586-3956,
This is what I am calling an Ellwein Street Engine.
I would like to sell it only after it is performance checked to verify ring seal, oil pressure, quiet operation and coolant temperature.  Testing should be completed by the end of April. 
[LINK to TESTING WEB PAGE ] This "street" short block uses a .030" overbore LT1 block which has been fully clearanced and then pressure tested, cylinder bored/honed and align bored/honed.  The rotating assembly consists of a SCAT cast 3.75" stroke crank, Eagle ESP forged 6.0" I-beam rods, TRW Hypereutectic flat-top pistons, stock main caps with ARP studs and Cloyes timing gear set.  I will add a high quality oil pump and stock oil pan free of charge.  This short block does not include the cam.  I will install and degree any cam you supply for free.  Also, if you buy this short block I will install your heads, valve train and intake for free if you supply the parts.  I will also deliver it for free if you live within 300 miles of Maryland.  Since I do plan to test the engine to verify proper ring seal and general health you can claim it by putting down a $1000 deposit with the remainder due upon delivery.  The $1000 deposit will be fully refunded if the engine does not pass the op-check.  Detailed parts and machine shop cost are listed below.  I will also show all blueprinting and reveal all flaws and building mistakes.  Although you will notice that this engine cost more than $2500 in parts and machine work I want to offer all of my assembly effort for free in order to kick start Ellwein Engines.  This could be called a Grand Opening sale.  

This is the short bock as of 4-23-06.  The block still needs primer and paint.  Remember, I will install your cam/heads/lifters/valve-train/intake/flexplate for free if you desire and supply the parts.

Not a very glamorous photo but it shows the business end of this super budget "street" short block. The crank was purchase 4-5-05 and used for a few weeks in an engine for my "Black Wolf" car.  I will include a good quality oil pump and stock oil pan if you commit to buying this short bock.  The oil pump will be a Melling MEL-155 standard volume OEM replacement.

Getting close to test time.  I've been meaning to pull the LT1-350 in my DGGM ImpalaSS and take it's GM846 cam and well ported z28 aluminum heads for use in this street stroker.  My guess is that it will be a very good combo for the street and it should make my Impala SS run low 12's in the summer.  And again, here is that link to the testing web page.  [LINK]

Thar' she is after primer and VHT engine enamel.  What your looking at is the ESE#5 short block with temporary heads, cam and intake installed for testing purposes.  Of course the heads/cam/intake are not included. If you don't like Chevy Red, (which is kinda orange), then I don't think it would be too hard to paint over this.  

Ellwein Street Engine #5 assembly and parts detail:

The block is from a junk yard core acquired in 2005.  I clearanced the block for a Cola 3.800" stroke crank and added Hard Blok at the very bottom of the water jacket up to the bottom of the freeze plugs.  There is one spot that is ground thin and would seep water if not for the Hard Blok or an epoxy.  I'll show you that spot in the photos to the right.  The Cola crank became too troublesome so I decided to try a super budget street stroker with light weight Eagle rods and quiet Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons.  My plan for testing is to install a GM846 cam and ported LT1 Z28 heads.  I'll check for good ring seal, quiet operation, good oil pressure and because of the water jacket fill I will monitor water temperature.

Parts cost:  
Used GM LT1 block (9.025" deck height): $500.00
 Used cast SCAT 9000 series crank : $240.00
New Eagle forged 6.0" I-beam rods: $270.00
New hyper pistons with skirt coating and rings: $300.00
Used ARP main stud kit: $Free$
Mix of new Clevite 77and FM main bearings: $55
Federal Mogul Dur O Shiled Rod Bearings: $85
New Sealed Power 1235M cam bearings: $free$
New Cloyes timing gear set: $80
New Melling High Performance oil pump: $Free$
New Melling oil pump pickup: $Free$
Used stock oil pan: $Free$
Total parts: $1540.00

Machine work:
Bore & torque plate hone to .030": $200.00
Clean block and buff machine surfaces: $300.00
Fit stock caps and align bore/hone: $200.00
Total machine work: $700.00

Internal (neutral) balance rotating assembly: $300.00
Machine crank and add 3 balance slugs: $165.00

All high quality machine work by:
 Brinkley's Auto Machine
8706 Armstrong Lane
Upper Marlboro, Maryland 20772

Assembly, blueprinting, stroker clearancing:


Why buy an Ellwein Engine?
For the last 7 years I've been assembling LT1 engines for my Impala SS racing hobby.  I enjoy engine building and would like to begin building for the general public.  Although professional engine builders can offer the same parts and machine work quality for almost the same cost, I can offer a great amount of attention to detail during assembly that some professional shops cannot offer, (unless huge $$$ is paid).  

Here are examples of other projects 

#2 on left has a cast SCAT crank, stock main caps, stock impala SS rods and Lunati pistons .
#3 is my best engine and is bolted together with a forged OHIO crank, Milodon splayed 2/3/4 main caps , Eagle H-beams and Mahle flat top pistons.
LINK to ERE#2 <not for sale>
LINK to ERE#3 <not for sale>
LINK to ERE#4 recent project <SOLD>

And how about some name dropping.
That's Lennart Bergquist: The 2005 Popular Hot Rod Magazine Engine Master's Champion.  He let me hang out around the Autoshop Racing Engines facility for a few days. 
Here is a good link to one of many magazine articles featuring Autoshop:

This is the engine I assembled in 2005 that is now my best and favorite engine, (ERE#3).  Notice the Titan brand gerotor oil pump. That pump has no equal as far as providing reliable oil supply and pressure.  Be aware that this pump only fits with a few oil pans, (Billet Fabrication and Stef's).
The Milodon splayed caps are what really strengthen the whole assembly and increase bearing life.  I've run 11.096 @ 122 all natural and 10.301 @ 132mph on 175hp nitrous with this bottom end and GMLT4 heads and street solid roller cam.  I try to duplicate this engine for all of my future "race" engines.  I define a race engine as one with splayed caps and forged rotating assembly.  My "street" engine short blocks will have low cost 383 rotating assemblies and stock main caps with high quality piston rings and bearings.  I feel that nothing more than that is needed for street engines.

Assembly raw detail:

These are the 4.030" Sealed Power hyper pistons on Eagle forged I beam rods.  The pistons have a side skirt coating and come with non file-fit rings. Piston part number is TRW-8KH124CL30 = $300 from Summit

Freshly machined block with a view of the Federal Mogul Dur-O-Shild coated bearings and ARP main studs

Test fit of Scat 9000 series 3.75" one piece rear crank and stock main caps

Here is one flaw I need to show you.  Its a water jacket grind through at #6 hole.  Hard Blok is in the lower 2" of the water jacket to ensure no seeping

The block filler is like grout or concrete and it might affect the knock sensor's function?

The block has HUGE clearance and that is because I was going to use a 3.800" Cola crank with different H-beam rods.  This 3.75" stroke crank and I-beam rods might even almost clear and "un-clearanced" bock

This photo is #1 main Plasigauge prior to crush.  I spent days trying to get the main bearing clearance perfect between a set of standard, 1-under and 2-under bearings.  I gave up.  My goal is (.0015" at #1), (.002" at #2,3,4) and (.0025" at #5).  I ended up settling for (.0015" @1) (.001" @ 2,3,4) and (.002" @ 5)

To get .0015" at #1 I used a .002 under Clevite 77 bearing.

At #2, 3 & 4 mains I get .001 if I use the 2-under Clevite 77, (see photo).  So I try a 1-under Federal Mogul and you'd think I would get .002" clearance but NO! I get .003".  I checked numerous times and still got the same result.  I settled on the tighter .001" clearance using the Clevite 77.

See here this is the .003" squish with the 1-under FM Dur-O-Shield bearing.

This is what the coating on the Dur-O-Shield looks like.  These mains cost $90 bucks.  The only place I used them is at the thrust.

Here I am finding exact top dead center to determine piston deck height.  I measured all 8 pistons because cheap crank shafts are sometimes twisted and have inconsistent throws.  They all were from .018" to .020" down in the hole.

After finding TDC I used a feeler gauge.

Here is 3, 5, 7 and a good view of a neat feature of this flat top piston and it's geometry matching valve relief.  You have to pay attention when assembling the piston to rod.  These pistons are full floating and use a wire pin lock.  

And here is the check on piston #8

A good view of the fully assembled bottom

I only checked clearance of 5 and 6 rods.  They are .0015" by plasti-gauge.

This short block will now be prepared for testing.  I'll install heads/cam and put it in my Impala SS and check for unusual water temp and oil temp.  I'll also verify quiet pistons and good oil pressure.  See all of the testing and results (good or bad) at the ESE5 testing web page. [LINK] 2006, The Heavy Eliminator 2006, , email Karl Ellwein