4-27-06: The short block is SOLD! I can build another
one for you though. Call or Email. 410-586-3956, firstname.lastname@example.org.
is what I am calling an Ellwein Street Engine.
I would like to
sell it only after it is performance checked to verify ring
seal, oil pressure, quiet operation and coolant temperature.
Testing should be completed by the end of April.
TESTING WEB PAGE ] This
"street" short block uses a .030" overbore LT1 block
which has been fully clearanced and then pressure
tested, cylinder bored/honed and align bored/honed. The rotating assembly
consists of a SCAT cast 3.75" stroke crank, Eagle ESP forged 6.0"
I-beam rods, TRW Hypereutectic flat-top
pistons, stock main caps with ARP studs and Cloyes timing gear set. I will add a high quality oil pump and stock oil pan free of charge. This short
block does not include the cam. I will install and degree
any cam you supply for free. Also, if you buy this short block
I will install your heads, valve train and intake for free if you
supply the parts. I will also deliver it for free if you live
within 300 miles of Maryland. Since I do plan to test the engine
to verify proper ring seal
and general health you can claim it by putting down a $1000 deposit
with the remainder due upon delivery. The $1000 deposit will
be fully refunded if the engine does not pass the op-check. Detailed parts and machine shop cost
are listed below. I will also show all blueprinting and reveal all
flaws and building mistakes. Although you will notice that
this engine cost more than $2500 in parts and machine work I want to
offer all of my assembly effort for free in order to kick start
Ellwein Engines. This could be called a Grand Opening sale.
This is the short bock as of 4-23-06. The block still
needs primer and paint. Remember, I will install your
cam/heads/lifters/valve-train/intake/flexplate for free
if you desire and supply the parts.
Not a very glamorous photo but it shows the business end of this
super budget "street" short block. The crank was purchase
4-5-05 and used for a few weeks in an engine for my "Black
Wolf" car. I will include a good quality oil pump and
stock oil pan if you commit to buying this short bock. The oil
pump will be a Melling MEL-155 standard volume OEM replacement.
Getting close to test time. I've been meaning to pull the
LT1-350 in my DGGM ImpalaSS and take it's GM846 cam and well ported
z28 aluminum heads for use in this street stroker. My guess is
that it will be a very good combo for the street and it should make
my Impala SS run low 12's in the summer. And again, here is
that link to the testing web page. [LINK]
Thar' she is after primer and VHT engine enamel. What your
looking at is the ESE#5 short block with temporary heads, cam and
intake installed for testing purposes. Of course the
heads/cam/intake are not included. If you don't like Chevy Red,
(which is kinda orange), then I don't think it would be too hard to
paint over this.
Engine #5 assembly and parts detail:
The block is from a junk yard core acquired in
2005. I clearanced the block for a Cola 3.800" stroke
crank and added Hard Blok at the very bottom of the water jacket up
to the bottom of the freeze plugs. There is one spot that is
ground thin and would seep water if not for the Hard Blok or an
epoxy. I'll show you that spot in the photos to the right. The Cola crank became too
troublesome so I decided to try a super budget street stroker with
light weight Eagle rods and quiet Speed Pro hypereutectic
pistons. My plan for testing is to install a GM846 cam and
ported LT1 Z28 heads. I'll check for good ring seal, quiet
operation, good oil pressure and because of the water jacket
fill I will monitor water temperature.
Used GM LT1 block (9.025" deck height): $500.00
Used cast SCAT 9000 series crank : $240.00
New Eagle forged 6.0" I-beam rods: $270.00
New hyper pistons with skirt coating and rings: $300.00
Used ARP main stud kit: $Free$
Mix of new Clevite 77and FM main bearings: $55
Federal Mogul Dur O Shiled Rod Bearings: $85
New Sealed Power 1235M cam bearings: $free$
New Cloyes timing gear set: $80
New Melling High Performance oil pump: $Free$
New Melling oil pump pickup: $Free$
Used stock oil pan: $Free$
Total parts: $1540.00
Bore & torque plate hone to .030": $200.00
Clean block and buff machine surfaces: $300.00
Fit stock caps and align bore/hone: $200.00
Total machine work: $700.00
Internal (neutral) balance rotating assembly: $300.00
Machine crank and add 3 balance slugs: $165.00
All high quality machine work by:
Brinkley's Auto Machine
8706 Armstrong Lane
Upper Marlboro, Maryland 20772
blueprinting, stroker clearancing:
Why buy an Ellwein Engine?
For the last 7 years I've been assembling LT1 engines for my Impala
SS racing hobby. I enjoy engine building and would like to
begin building for the general public. Although professional
engine builders can offer the same parts and machine work quality
for almost the same cost, I can offer a great amount of attention to
detail during assembly that some professional shops cannot offer,
(unless huge $$$ is paid).
Here are examples of other
#2 on left has a cast SCAT crank, stock main caps, stock impala SS rods and Lunati
#3 is my best engine and is bolted together with a forged OHIO
crank, Milodon splayed 2/3/4 main caps , Eagle H-beams and Mahle
flat top pistons.
to ERE#2 <not for sale>
to ERE#3 <not for sale>
to ERE#4 recent project <SOLD>
And how about some name
That's Lennart Bergquist: The
2005 Popular Hot Rod Magazine Engine Master's Champion. He let
me hang out around the Autoshop Racing Engines facility for a few
Here is a good link to one of many magazine articles featuring
This is the engine I assembled in 2005 that is now my best and
favorite engine, (ERE#3). Notice
the Titan brand gerotor oil pump. That pump has no equal as far
as providing reliable oil supply and pressure. Be
aware that this pump only fits with a few oil pans, (Billet
Fabrication and Stef's).
The Milodon splayed caps are what really
strengthen the whole assembly and increase bearing life. I've
run 11.096 @ 122 all natural and 10.301 @ 132mph on 175hp nitrous
with this bottom end and GMLT4 heads and street solid roller
cam. I try to duplicate this engine for all of my future
"race" engines. I define a race engine as one with
splayed caps and forged rotating assembly. My "street"
engine short blocks will have low cost 383
rotating assemblies and stock main caps with high quality piston
rings and bearings. I feel that nothing more than that is
needed for street engines.
Assembly raw detail:
These are the 4.030" Sealed Power hyper pistons on Eagle forged
I beam rods. The pistons have a side skirt coating and come
with non file-fit rings. Piston part number is TRW-8KH124CL30 = $300
Freshly machined block with a view of the Federal Mogul Dur-O-Shild coated bearings and ARP main studs
Test fit of Scat 9000 series 3.75" one piece rear crank and
stock main caps
Here is one flaw I need to show you. Its a water jacket grind
through at #6 hole. Hard Blok is in the lower 2" of the
water jacket to ensure no seeping
The block filler is like grout or concrete and it might affect the
knock sensor's function?
The block has HUGE clearance and that is because I was going to use
a 3.800" Cola crank with different H-beam rods. This
3.75" stroke crank and I-beam rods might even almost clear and
This photo is #1 main Plasigauge prior to crush. I spent days
trying to get the main bearing clearance perfect between a set of
standard, 1-under and 2-under bearings. I gave
up. My goal is (.0015" at #1), (.002" at #2,3,4) and
(.0025" at #5). I ended up settling for (.0015" @1)
(.001" @ 2,3,4) and (.002" @ 5)
To get .0015" at #1 I used a .002 under Clevite 77 bearing.
At #2, 3 & 4 mains I get .001 if I use the 2-under Clevite 77,
So I try a 1-under Federal Mogul and you'd think I would get
.002" clearance but NO! I get .003". I checked
numerous times and still got the same
result. I settled on the tighter .001" clearance using
the Clevite 77.
See here this is the .003" squish with the 1-under FM Dur-O-Shield bearing.
This is what the coating on the Dur-O-Shield looks like. These
mains cost $90 bucks. The only place I used them is at the
Here I am finding exact top dead center to determine piston deck
height. I measured all 8 pistons because cheap crank shafts
are sometimes twisted and have inconsistent throws. They all
were from .018" to .020" down in the hole.
After finding TDC I used a feeler gauge.
Here is 3, 5, 7 and a good view of a neat feature of this flat top
piston and it's geometry matching valve relief. You have to
pay attention when assembling the piston to rod. These pistons
are full floating and use a wire pin lock.
And here is the check on piston #8
A good view of the fully assembled bottom
I only checked clearance of 5 and 6 rods. They are .0015"
This short block will now be
prepared for testing. I'll install heads/cam and put it in my
Impala SS and check for unusual water temp and oil temp. I'll
also verify quiet pistons and good oil pressure. See all of
the testing and results (good or bad) at the ESE5 testing web page.