Dart/ERE-383 #20 Long Block for forced induction. Ai custom cam, Dart Pro-1 LT1 cylinder heads, ROSS custom blower pistons.


This motor is going to be built to handle forced induction.  A blower motor is basically the same as all of my Race ERE-383 motors with the exception of upgraded Ross custom piston.  This build will have a Compstar crankshaft and 5.850" Compstar rods.

Here is a little extra clearancing for the Compstar rods.

Golen clearances the block for me but sometimes certain rods need a bit more.

I tapped the front oil galleys for threaded plugs and clearanced the bottom of the cylinders a little bit more for rods.

Block has been blown with air and soap-water cleaned and oiled with WD-40.

Cam bearings to be installed.  These are the coated Dura-Bond.


Cam bearing installation tool.  Great care is needed so as not to mar the bearings.


Advanced Induction custom camshaft.

The cam is on a billet core, (looks to be as good a quality as Crane).  Most cams from Ai come with an "Everwear" distributor gear, (oil pump drive gear).  This one has the Everwear gear.

Forgot to show the thread tapping of front oil galleys.

After washing the block and blowing out with air here is what the threaded oil galleys look like.

Main bearing clearance check.  #5 here is at .003"

The mains ended up thusly: #1=.0025, #2=.0025, #3=.0027, #4=.0027, #5=.0030   The Compstar crankshaft (by Callies) always comes .001" smaller on the main journals I guess because they feel that engine builders want it that way.  The crank mains were 3.448" and I ended up using .001/standard bearing halves in #1 and #2 position.  Std/std for #3, 4, 5.  

Custom ROSS piston designed by Mark McKeown of McKeown Motorsports Engineering.  The top ring is .350" down from the crown.

Photo pose of the spiro-lox.  This is not the most fun part of an engine build. :)

Getting set up to file-fit the custom Total Seal conventionally gapped piston rings.

This LT1 piston is my ring squaring tool.

Shooting for .020" top and .024" 2nd ring.

The gap sounds tight for a blower motor but the rings are down away from combustion heat.

This rod bearing measured .0025" clearance.

#1 piston with rings installed, (medium tension oil rings).

I did not actually measure yet but that looks to be zero deck height.

Cloyes double roller timing set checked at 107 ICL (cam card spec is 108).

I had a bit of a delay waiting for the rod bearings to arrive from my supplier.  Short block is almost finished.

When torquing the rod bolts this .017" feeler gauge keeps the rods aligned.

Windage tray studs arrived.  Swapped out the ARP studs with these Milodons.

Fuzzy photo and only one I have of the oil pump and windage tray.

Stock oil pan fits quite well and simply requires hammer message to clear the #1 and #2 rod bolts.

Dent out the pan in this spot.

Might as well show a few other details.  Here are the threaded oil galley plugs behind the Cloyes double roller.

Here is a thread cleaning tap.  Make sure to keep the pistons/bores clean.  The dirt in this photo is paper towel dust.  It is not metal.

This motor is to have ARP main studs.  They are very hard to seal (for reasons I still am not sure).  I clean the ARP studs and also clean the block threads.  I've used Right Stuff RTV in the past with good success and now I'm trying 3M marine 5200.

Both Dart Pro1 LT1 heads are installed and the head studs are torqued to 85ft-lb with 30w oil.

Probe shaft rockers and CV products 3/8" pushrods, (which taper at the tip to 5/16")

I should have known but the top 4 head studs need to be replaced with ARP head bolts to clear the shaft stands.  Same deal if using Jesel shaft rockers.

Making sure these fit and verifying I have the proper pushrod length.  Last motor with these heads had 7.050" pushrods and so that's what I ordered.

The 7.050" pushrods fit well.  Pushrod length will not affect shaft rocker geometry.  The pushrods just need to fit so the adjusting cup is not too far out or too far in.

Left side valve train installed.

Valve train fully installed.  GMPP hydraulic lifters at 1/2 turn preload.

Fuzzy photo of the customer requested ARP 2.25" outside diameter damper hub. The LT1 timing cover needs to be machined wider to fit this.  ARP is doing that as we type.

ATI machined timing cover for bigger crank seal.  I clearanced the cam area for the fatter Cloyes double roller timing chain.

This is how the motor looks with POR-15 engine gray.

Also see the Big Block Chevy outside diameter ATI hub.


The gray paint does not look good.  I like the darker gray.  So I now have POR15 engine black on the motor.  Here is one last look at the bottom end before installing the oil pump and oil pan.  Notice the bigger crank damper.  This is an item that ATI sells to fit SBC crank noses but at the BBC outside diameter.


Until I can figure out a secure and confident way to retain the M99HVS oil pump pickup I will use the Melling select 10552 which comes with the 70psi relief spring and 10% higher than stock volume.  The pickup is bolted on.

Making sure the pickup is at the correct location of about 3/8" off the bottom of the pan.

Here is my oil pressure and oil system pre-lube test.  The pump made 60psig at 2500 drill rpm.  All the lifters are pump up and oil oozed out of the top of the pushrods and onto the shaft rockers.  The motor is also getting taped up and wrapped for shipping to Tennessee this same day.

 


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